Railways Discontinues ‘Colonial Uniform’: Evolution of the Bandhgala – A ‘Made in India’ Fashion Statement
Table of Contents
Relevance:
GS Paper I – Indian Heritage & Culture, Evolution of Indian court dress traditions, Mughal–Rajput cultural synthesis, Indigenous fashion as cultural identity
Important Keywords
For Prelims:
- Bandhgala / Jodhpuri jacket, Indian textile heritage, Mughal–Rajput cultural synthesis, Colonial adaptation of Indian symbols, De-colonisation of institutions.
For Mains:
- Indian culture, syncretism, heritage, Symbolism in governance, colonial legacies, Cultural identity, ethical governance.
Why in News?
Union Railways Minister Ashwini Vaishnaw announced that railway staff would no longer wear the bandhgala uniform, calling it a colonial relic. This triggered debate as the bandhgala is historically one of the first indigenous Indian garments to gain global recognition.
Context and Contemporary Relevance
- Indian Railways recently discontinued the bandhgala uniform, calling it a colonial relic.
- Historically, this perception is inaccurate as the bandhgala is one of the earliest indigenous garments of India to gain international recognition.
- It represents indigenous modernity, where Indian tradition adapted to changing times without losing identity.
Place of Origin: Jodhpur (Marwar), Rajasthan
- Originated in the princely state of Jodhpur under the Rathore dynasty.
- Known as:
- Bandhgala (closed neck)
- Jodhpuri jacket
- Prince suit / Prince cut
- Initially worn as a formal court garment by Rajput rulers and nobles.
Pre-Colonial Roots in Indian Court Dress
- Indian courts had advanced clothing traditions long before colonial rule.
- Mughal court garments laid the foundation:
- Jama: fitted bodice, closed neckline, ceremonial use
- Angrakha: banded neckline, centre fastening, padded structure
- These garments introduced the idea of a structured, closed-neck formal coat.
Mughal–Rajput Cultural Synthesis
- Rathore rulers of Marwar entered Mughal imperial service.
- Mughal court aesthetics merged with Rajput warrior culture.
- Rajputs shortened long Mughal robes to improve mobility.
- New garments evolved:
- Bago – refined court tunic
- Dagali and Gudadi – padded ceremonial jackets
- This process transformed the robe into a true jacket form.
Achkan as the Immediate Precursor
- By late Mughal period, achkan became common:
- High-necked
- Close-fitting
- Knee-length coat
- It resembled the bandhgala but was not suitable for riding or sport.
- Need for polo-friendly attire led to shorter, sharper, fitted jackets.
- This functional adaptation produced the modern bandhgala.
Role of Polo in Globalisation
- Jodhpur royals popularised polo as a royal sport.
- Polo teams travelled to England and Europe in early 20th century.
- Jacket paired with breeches became known as Jodhpurs.
- Western elite admired the outfit’s elegance and functionality.
- The bandhgala entered global fashion through royal diplomacy, not colonisation.
British Tailoring Influence (Without Loss of Indian Identity)
- British tailors on Savile Row refined the jacket:
- Precise measurements
- Shoulder pads
- Set-in sleeves
- Clean, sharp structure
- Core Indian features remained unchanged:
- High collar
- Closed front
- Ceremonial silhouette
- This was adaptation, not imitation.
Colonial Politics of Dress
- British adoption had strategic motives:
- High collars already used in China and Japan
- Britain sought pan-Asian cultural uniformity
- In India, wearing Indian-style garments helped colonial rulers:
- Gain legitimacy
- Appear culturally accommodating
- Colonial elements like insignia, epaulettes, trims were later additions.
- The jacket itself remained Indian in origin.
Functional and Climatic Logic of Design
- High collar protected from North Indian winters.
- No need for scarves or ties in pre-modern times.
- Design allowed royal jewellery to be displayed prominently.
- Similar jackets absent in southern India due to climate differences.
- Shows environment–culture interaction in dress evolution.
20th Century Revival and Popular Culture
- Revived by Raghavendra Singh Rathore, descendant of Jodhpur royalty.
- Reintroduced bandhgala to global fashion in the 1990s.
- Admired by international designers:
- Donna Karan
- Oscar de la Renta
- Popularised in India through films like Eklavya (Saif Ali Khan).
Cultural and Historical Significance
- Symbol of indigenous modernity
- Example of cultural synthesis (Mughal–Rajput–Western)
- Proof that Indian fashion influenced the West
- Challenges the narrative that modern Indian dress is colonial
- Represents continuity, adaptation, and resilience of Indian culture
CARE MCQ
The bandhgala originated in which princely state?
- Jaipur
- Jodhpur
- Udaipur
- Bikaner
Answer: B
- Originated in the princely state of Jodhpur under the Rathore dynasty.
- Known as:
- Bandhgala (closed neck)
- Jodhpuri jacket
- Prince suit / Prince cut
- Initially worn as a formal court garment by Rajput rulers and nobles.
CARE MCQ
Consider the following pairs of schemes and their implementing ministries:
Scheme | Ministry |
1. Atal Innovation Mission (AIM) | NITI Aayog |
2. GENESIS (Gen-Next Support for Innovative Startups) | Ministry of Electronics & Information Technology |
3. Startup Village Entrepreneurship Programme (SVEP) | Ministry of Rural Development |
4. ASPIRE Scheme | Department of Science & Technology |
Which of the pairs given above are correctly matched?
- 1, 2 and 3 only
- 1 and 4 only
- 2, 3 and 4 only
- 1, 2, 3 and 4
Answer: A
Explanation:
- Atal Innovation Mission (AIM) is implemented by NITI Aayog to promote innovation and entrepreneurship across the country.
- GENESIS Scheme is implemented by the Ministry of Electronics & Information Technology (MeitY) to support deep-tech startups, especially in Tier II and Tier III cities.
- Startup Village Entrepreneurship Programme (SVEP) is implemented by the Ministry of Rural Development under DAY-NRLM to promote rural entrepreneurship.
- ASPIRE (Scheme for Promotion of Innovation, Rural Industries and Entrepreneurship) is implemented by the Ministry of MSME, not by the Department of Science & Technology.
