Physical Properties of Ocean Water
I. Temperature Variations in Oceans
a. Horizontal Distribution of Temperature
- Equatorial regions receive high insolation → high surface temperatures (up to 30°C).
- Polar regions receive little solar radiation → surface temperatures fall below 0°C.
- Warm ocean currents (e.g., Gulf Stream) raise surface temperatures along eastern margins of continents in higher latitudes.
- Cold currents (e.g., California Current) lower temperatures along western coasts in subtropics.
b. Vertical Temperature Profiles
- Ocean water temperature decreases with depth.
- Three layers:
- Surface Layer (Mixed Layer) – well-mixed by wind and waves; uniform temperature (up to ~200m).
- Thermocline Layer – sharp decrease in temperature with depth (200m–1000m).
- Deep Zone – stable, uniformly cold (~2°C to 4°C), extends below 1000m.
c. Thermocline Zone
- A transition zone between warm upper layer and cold deep layer.
- Acts as a barrier to vertical mixing of water.
- Strongly developed in tropical oceans; weak or absent in polar regions.
- Important in ocean circulation and biological productivity.
II. Density of Ocean Water
a. Factors Affecting Density
- Temperature: Inversely proportional – colder water is denser.
- Salinity: Directly proportional – more saline water is denser.
- Pressure: Increases density slightly at great depths.
b. Density Stratification in the Ocean
- Ocean water is stratified into layers based on density:
- Upper Layer – low density, well-mixed, less saline and warmer.
- Pycnocline – zone of rapid density increase with depth.
- Deep Layer – high density, cold and saline water.
- Thermohaline Circulation is driven by these differences in density (temperature + salinity).
III. Oceanic Pressure and Its Impact
- Increases with depth due to the weight of overlying water.
- At 10m depth, pressure increases by 1 atmosphere.
- Affects:
- Movement and mixing of water masses.
- Adaptation of deep-sea organisms.
- Design of submersibles and underwater infrastructure.
IV. Ocean Waves and Tides
a. Types of Ocean Waves
- Wind-generated waves – most common, caused by friction of wind over surface.
- Tsunami – seismic sea waves caused by undersea earthquakes or volcanic eruptions.
- Tidal Waves – large waves associated with the gravitational pull of the moon and sun (not to be confused with tsunami).
- Internal Waves – occur along pycnocline (density gradient) in deeper ocean layers.
| Wavelength – distance between successive crests.
Wave height – vertical distance from trough to crest. Wave period – time between two successive crests passing a point. |
b. Formation and Characteristics of Tides
- Tides are periodic rise and fall of sea level due to gravitational forces of the moon and sun.
- Types of tides:
- Spring Tide – highest tidal range; occurs during new moon & full moon (sun, moon, and earth aligned).
- Neap Tide – lowest tidal range; occurs during first and third quarters of the moon (sun and moon at right angles).
- Diurnal Tide – one high and one low tide daily.
- Semi-diurnal Tide – two high and two low tides daily.
- Mixed Tide – varying heights of tides each day.
Significance:
- Tides influence navigation, fishing, tidal power generation, and coastal processes.